Almond Shortbread

Almond Shortbread © Past Recipes

If you hadn't guessed from my eagerness to try out my great-great-grandmother Lottie's recipe for Congress Tarts, then you should probably know that I love almonds. With that in mind, Lottie's handwritten instructions for Almond Shortbread from 1912 were irresistible!

Although shortbread isn't really a Cornish delicacy, I wasn't at all shocked to see that Lottie was making it in St Agnes during the early 20th century. Indeed, not so long ago you would have met quite a few Scots living in Cornwall, especially in and around St Ives.

My Nan often tells me about her "Auntie Molly", who was from Inverness, and the Burn's Night celebrations they would attend at the Porthminster Hotel (now the St Ives Harbour Hotel & Spa) - complete with kilts, bagpipes, ceilidh dancing and haggis.

I myself have always felt drawn to Scotland and was lucky enough to live in Edinburgh for a time. My flat was just around the corner from Pinnies & Poppy Seeds, a beautiful artisan bakery near the Royal Mile. The smell of shortbread cooking was unreal and it took a lot of willpower for me not to pop in there every day!

Research has shown that shortbread may date to the 12th century in Scotland, as a type of sweet biscuit bread which was reserved for celebrations and family gatherings. While many countries produce a version of the "butter biscuit", it remains synonymous with Scotland, where it is often judged to be at it's finest.

I think of shortbread as quick and easy to make, so I was a little miffed when it took me a few attempts to get Lottie's recipe right! Considering this, while I have transcribed Lottie's instructions below, they are followed by an account of my most successful bake and my recommendations for trying her recipe out for yourself.

"Almond Shortbread" by Lottie Fern, 'Cookery Recipes' 1912 © Past Recipes

Almond Shortbread

Ingredients:

• 3 oz flour
• 3 oz cornflour
• 6 oz butter
• 3 oz caster sugar
• 2 oz sweet almonds
• One egg
• Some almond essence

Method:

1. Sift the flour and cornflour into a basin
2. Rub in the butter and then add the sugar, almonds, blanched and chopped, and a few drops of almond essence
3. Mix to a smooth paste with one beaten egg yolk
4. Knead, roll out on a floured board and cut into long shapes
5. Brush over with white of egg, sprinkle with chopped almonds and bake for twelve minutes in a moderate oven

My first alteration was with the sweet almonds. I initially either prepared the almonds myself or used ready-chopped, both of which resulted in a pleasing, crumbly texture. However, I have since started using ground almonds, which seem to make the shortbread more melt in the mouth buttery. I think it's a matter of personal preference though!

Likewise, the recipe stipulates a "a few drops of almond essence", but I like quite a strong flavour - so I go with three teaspoonfuls. I would suggest trying out different amounts over a couple of bakes until you get the taste that you like best.

No matter what I do, the mixture always ends up too sticky for me to roll out and cut into shapes. Therefore, I have taken to packing it all into a cake tin and baking it for 45 minutes to an hour. Similarly, though Lottie recommended a moderate oven, I have found that Gas Mark 2 (130°C Fan/150°C/300°F) is ideal.

Finally, if you're baking the shortbread like I have, I would cut it while it's still warm but allow it to remain in the cake tin while it cools down.

I would love to know if anyone manages to alter the recipe to achieve Lottie's intended finger length biscuits, so please feel free to comment or to catch up with me on social media! 

Katie

Almond Shortbread © Past Recipes